Our LED grow lights can make your plants thrive even at night or without sunlight
Use high quality and Eco-friendly material, use high grade lamp beads. It has the advantages of super brightness, low heat and low power consumption. Can be used for gardening, family growing /seeding, or greenhouse planting.
- 1. Environmental protection, low heat, low power consumption, high luminous efficiency, super brightness, more than 50,000 hours of working life.
- 2. Its radiating area is about 2 square meters, make your plant enjoying full lighting and growing better.
- 3. Its regulating function suitable for the whole growth cycle of plants. Need not adjust the position of the lamp, just adjust luminous intensity and spectrum, save your time and energy.
- 4. You can use metal wire or other wire to hang Led grow lights above plants, easy and convenient.
- 5. Double chips (10 Watts)LED with super bright COB integration, working more effectively, Led grow lights can make your plants grow faster and better, save your time, scientific design, to maintain Par/Lumen output and coverage balance.
- 6. By using our led grow light, can enhance the photosynthesis, help plants to absorb nutrients, especially some trace elements, shorten the growth cycle with higher efficiency and better quality.
- 7. Powerful cooling system: each LED light has a cooling fan, which can keep light cool and quiet, make working time much longer.
- 8. Energy saving: power consumption is about 0.11 kilowatt/hour, save more energy than HPS or MH light.
Matters needing attention
The power of high-output LEDs
- 1. Don't use lights in dripping places or in any damp places. Water and electricity can be a dangerous mixture.
- 2. The working environment is - 20 - 40 C and the relative humidity is 45 - 90%.
- 3. To protect the light, cut off the power supply when lightning strikes.
- 4. Do not touch or move the lamp while it is working.
- 1. The knob adjusts the full spectrum, can control blue COB and red light separately, can also turn on all light sources at the same time, can save energy and electricity, targeted cultivation of marijuana high quality fruit and so on!
- 2. COB combined with red and blue light bead style is not yet available in the market, the concentration effect is good, COB full disc contains warm yellow light, white light infrared ultraviolet, etc., on the plant output value has the effect of improving.
- 3. COB is the full-spectrum technology, the lamp beads choose Taiwan light macro lamp beads wick 38min on the market is 28min wick long life, better effect.
- 4. LED plant lamp lamp beads long life also need to match good power supply, power upgrade dual capacitors with dual insurance power supply, even if a bad one can also continue to work, longer life!
- 5. complete certification, provide FCC CE ROHS foreign certification, this most factories do not go to do the certification
- 6. volume and weight reduction relative to the seller to reduce logistics costs, relative to the buyer to install more convenient!
- 7. Color box packaging is the only factory custom gift box design on the market, can be purchased as a gift.
Space-Saving SunLite® Gardens
Same SunLite features, but just 2' wide
Compact tabletop and rolling floor models in 3 heights.
- Start seeds and grow thriving herbs and houseplants anywhere!
- Dual-bulb, height-adjustable 2' light fixtures
- Choose energy-efficient LEDs or affordable fluorescents
- Sturdy, rustproof aluminum frames with watertight plastic trays
- Each floor model has casters, so you can roll where you need it — even into a closet!
- Each model available as a Garden Starter Kit , complete with seed-starting supplies
Modular Stack-n-Grow Light Gardens
The perfect starter system that grows with you!
Ease into indoor growing with 3' wide stackable units
- Energy-efficient LED and fluorescent options
- Dual-bulb, height-adjustable light fixtures
- Lightweight, super-sturdy plastic frames and shelves
- Easy assembly and light fixture height adjustment
- Available as a Garden Starter Kit, complete with seed-starting supplies
Grow Light Basics
First mistake is looking at Amazon for an LED grow light! First off you totally missed out the "Spider Farmer SF1000" You also missed out any COB grow light using CREE 3590 chips (3500 Kelvin for veg & bloom) The Mars Hydro lights are OK but not brilliant as they use cheaper LEDs rather than the Samsung LM301b/h.
The mars are ok if you don't have a lot of cash! In all reality avoid Amazon for LED grow lights. The Mars SP150 doesn't use a meanwell driver but the SP250 does use a meanwell driver!!
The Spider Farmer SF1000 is 100w actual draw with an efficiency of 1.96PPFD/Watt @12"/30cm, 3600 Kelvin with some far red veg 2' x2', bloom 1.5' x 1.5'. Cree CXB3590, 3500 Kelvin 80 CRI, 36.67V run at 2.7 Amps (2700mA) is 99.67W. So a CREE CXB3590 100W PPFD output is 185 - PPFD/Watt = 1.85. The Mars Hydro SP250 Hanging height: 40cm (16")
I've had several of those EBay cheapy chinese LED grow lights...But NO MORE.....They are shit....they burn out led's way too fast....and IF you get one that actually lasts for 12 months then you better have another one in waiting to replace it because it will be about to fail on you.....also, some of these chinese sellers just stop replying to your emails if you keep asking them to replace the faulty light....
They no likee the pressure. I started purchasing the Quantum boards with 288 Samsung led's on them, fitted with the Meanwell driver and boy what a difference in ALL output readings.<br />I changed to an organic feeding regime too....bin those crappy chemicals that create a salt build up in your grow medium that slows the growing program way down, try the Seaweed / kelp feed along with the Fishmeal as your go too feed for your plants....
Bigger buds....almost impossible to wreck your plants, so easy for new growers too. Also, use Mycorrhizal fungi on your roots when you make the final transplant into the plants last container and your roots just take off. Remember that plant foods DO NOT feed the plant....it feeds the microbes, and more healthy microbes means bigger healthier plants with bigger yeilds....
Commercial foods are salt based.....salt kills microbes....and stay away from shitty made chinese grow lights....stick to named brands. .....and always read those comments that buyers post on crappy chinese led grow lights.
For the last year I've been reading, researching, comparing various LED grow light systems and agree there's a lot cheapie units with problems.? Based on this review and numerous other from grow forums, quite a few agree this is the 'bang for the buck' unit for small personal grows.? Currently there is a 10% discount at Mars by using "MARSHYDRO" bringing the cost to $145 and change with free shipping to cont. us.I am about to embark on my 1st indoor grow, hopefully 2 moderate size bushy plants but still have a ton of questions about this?
- You mentioned the drop off at distance but have seen how important full irradiation is to the plant health especially to the lower portion.? I wonder if use of a simple frame with reflective material (alum. foil) at the base of the plants would help? I recall from an old 'hippie' growing manual found in a head shop eons ago suggests using white sand, alum. foil or even white paper during the last flowering stage prior to harvest.? ?What say you???BTW...The latest ad photos and verbiage says there IS a?2nd outlet plug opposite of the switches to allow daisy chaining to another unit.? I'll know for sure in a day or two.
Just now expanding my indoor growing vegetables and setting up a variety of lights from CFL to LED. I have two 5-inch round 40W Daylight LED Plant Light Bulb, Full Spectrum Ceramic LED Grow Lights (claiming 4.2 sq ft coverage), two Galaxyhydro Dimmable LED Grow Light, 300W (140 actual) Indoor Plants Grow Lights (claiming about 4-5 sq ft coverage), and a bunch of CFLs in both red and blue and ranging from 23W, 32W, 45W, and 65W.<br />My question is how close can I put them to the tops of the plants from seedlings to 2 ft tomato plants? I'd like to have them as close as possible since I'm growing on shelves and only can expand the height to 2-3 feet high on a few of the shelves. I'm growing on there 6ft adjustable height shelving units 18 inches wide and 28 inches long. I'm guessing the CFLs can be as close as a few inches but I don't have a clue about the LEDs. Thanks for any help you can offer.
I been using plant lights by Great Value a Wal-Mart brand. This is info that on a LED screw end type. POWER 8 watt. YIELD PHOTON FLuX ( umol/s) 21.08, PAR (umol/s) 4.37, LUMINOUS FLUX (lm) 906.5, CCT 1700, EFFICACY (lm/w) 72.36..... other grow lights same manufacturer number's would be like 10.76, 3.04, 425, 18.16.. what numbers should i be looking for? grow area 4x4. and when you stated that the Efficacy # the higher the no. the better. Whats the lowest numbers that wouldnt be efficient. i cant afford to pay high end lights but I can hack low end lights to be some what high end.
The last light you tested.. is made with the new SMD LEDs which uses less power but put out more photosynthetic radiation.. measuring Watts at the wall is the worst way to judge an LED grow light.. also all the lights you threw up on the screen are cheap Amazon grow lights.. I don't have any hate for them it's all I have in my garden.. but like I said they have some new grow lights out there with these SMD LEDs that only pull a hundred Watts that are putting out way more compared to the old LEDs that use more power.
PLC only makes the PLC 6.2 which is a light that covers a 4x4. It was on our Best LED Grow Lights 2018 list last year. It is a good light, but not competitive with other lights on the market in 2019. The photo boost strips are not a complete fixture. The video is titled, 'Top 10 Best LED Grow 'Lights' 2019', not 'Top 10 Best LED Grow Light 'Companies' 2019'. Same goes with Chilled, they are a great company, but they make a PCB, not a complete fixture.
Great, 1.3umol/j is a really crappy efficiency in reality but compared to the lowest of the blurple lights out there it is more efficient. May as well get florescent lights instead in my opinion. At least they are a nice white so you can inspect plants and look for deficiencies etc. For a similar price point to this you could get a cob grow light or something like a quantum board style (spiderfarmer sf1000).
I am using the same 100 watt COB LED with no green and very little of the yellow spectrum light produced as they use in the Chinese greenhouse productions. I get a much faster growth rate and higher yield than with natural direct sunlight.
I?ve tried other LED lamps including the kind shown in the video here and I get much better performance from my 40 mm X 90 mm COB strip with a graphite foil heatsink. I could use this lamp to light up a 10? X 10? room with white paint or Mylar and still grow plants at a comparable rate to natural sunlight.
For a mere 100 watts for usage and a purchase price of only $4.50 per lamp, it?s definitely been a good investment for my indoor gardening.
Bah, it's all good. My plants are doing fine under a 36W led for now. I'll just add a 100W cob light to my grow tent if I'm unsatisfied of my new 1500W led light. Small cob grow lights are only 50$ online. Life's too short to stress over the details.
Gardening Do you think the COB LED grow lights are worth a buy at this point? Seems like the diode LED lights are making strides to more efficiency and output, while the COB lights are just getting closer to the old standard of fighting with heat.
About "why would even a pro buy the expensive lights" is for several reasons.. Name recognition goes a long way for one as you won't have to worry whether it is a quality product or not as these makers guarantee their product with a warranty.. There are quite a few scammy grow lights on the market that exaggerate the wattage and some people simply don't like taking risks and are willing to pay for the comfort of knowing their light is what it says it is... Another reason is that they are usually able to be daisy chained with multiple light fixtures along with many other cooling and hanging features giving these setups more versatility for large operations.
As for the king plus. It would be more than sufficient for your small grow area. But they are one of the exaggerating companies who will claim a light is 1000w when in actuality it is closer to 180w.. When they say that "it is the equivalent to 1000 watt light". They are actually talking about in Lumens which is the measure of brightness the light outputs to the human eye. The reality however is that lumens are not a good measure of a lights productivity and pro growers will generally go by the PAR output of useable light spectrums a light produces to get a better idea of its productivity.
Truth be told. If you are willing to spend that amount of money for your light. You would be better off going with the latest COB LED technology (CHIP ON BOARD) that are the latest and greatest lights people use for growing. A good fixture with a couple cobs already in them along with extra UV LED's for oil production would be the (MEIZHI 600 watt COB LED) fixture that is a little more expensive then the one you were looking att. But would be significantly better for your specific grow op.
Another thing, Go all organic to minimize the amount of nutrients you would need to use. Utilize a mixture of worm castings, peat moss, perlite, vermiculite, blood meal and bone meal to have the perfect mixture of organic nutrients so that you wont need to add nutrients until flowering (or at all). Not to mention that it will be a much tastier and healthier bud.
First mistake is looking at Amazon for an LED grow light! First off you totally missed out the "Spider Farmer SF1000" You also missed out any COB grow light using CREE 3590 chips (3500 Kelvin for veg & bloom) The Mars Hydro lights are OK but not brilliant as they use cheaper LEDs rather than the Samsung LM301b/h. The mars are ok if you don't have a lot of cash! In all reality avoid Amazon for LED grow lights. The Mars SP150 doesn't use a meanwell driver but the SP250 does use a meanwell driver!! The Spider Farmer SF1000 is 100w actual draw with an efficiency of 1.96PPFD/Watt @12"/30cm, 3600 Kelvin with some far red veg 2' x2', bloom 1.5' x 1.5'. Cree CXB3590, 3500 Kelvin 80 CRI, 36.67V run at 2.7 Amps (2700mA) is 99.67W. So a CREE CXB3590 100W PPFD output is 185 - PPFD/Watt = 1.85. The Mars Hydro SP250 Hanging height: 40cm (16").
Here's what I kept finding on various websites??Why COB? --Background
LED(light emitting diode) is new technology with advantage of saving energy and very long lifespan. But all LED lightsource can not be faultless especially SMD, HP, flux LED etc. Compare to traditional lighting such as fluorescent lamp, as it is super bright in a small size, it cause uncomfortable glare. In case of no diffused optical lens used, such LEDs usually cause glare and zebra strips. But when optical lens or cover used, it will cause light loss when LED beam pass through this lens or cover.
How COB LED Light source works
COB LED is multi chips packaged, it can 10 times more increase lighting area, so it avoid uncomfortable glare by the maximum extent.
Lightspot use small size of chips to make COB LED package.
By now, for small size chip, ?some famous LED chip manufacturer can reach 249lm/watt @ 20mA. But big size LED chip can only reach 161lm/watt @350mA. The light efficacy decrease when chip size is bigger. Also when LED driver increase current to LED, the light efficacy per watt is even low.
The Seller shipped me one 20w instead of 10... so waiting on a reshipment of the other 9. The 50w hasn't arrived. I got a 30w bar style (~125x20mm COB led) with aluminum fin reflector and one 20w chip style one here now. The 30w fin/reflector ones are sold giving the impression they won't require a heatsink (the reflector is supposed to act as one). I wired up the 30w... It draws ~37w actual and the reflector is too hot to touch after about 3-5 minutes on. I turned it off at that point... so most likely requires a heatsink (i'll mount one to the reflector itself and test that setup later)... I'd say the 50w versions would absolutely require a heatsink... probably a decent sized or active one too. The reflector is sufficient cooling to use it for 3-10 minutes maybe... not for 8-24hrs... They DO cool off quite rapidly though, so a bank of three alternating one on two off may work without additional cooling if you wanted to try that for some reason.
I compared it with galactica luxmeter on my phone to a 60watt (actual draw 82w's including 2 80mm cooling fans) SMD LED unit and a small SMD LED bulb (sold as 10w... actual ~2watt draw). Not set up to do a fancy par region test... but it's pretty clearly a lot of light output. I'd be curious if two of them side by side compared well against the 60w SMD LED lamp... as they'd draw a similar amount of power. They definitely aren't clearly a great value though... once I add a heatsink to them, they're not even offering better cost/watt than the cheap SMD lamps do, and from my (admittedly very half assed) comparison they don't win on efficiency either. BUT... the big thing here is this reflector doesn't direct light very well and the lamp DOES. This thing damn near lights up a small room when on, so it'd have to be VERY close to efficiently light a small area... BUT the efficiency is going to improve a ton as you build a bigger system out of these and overlap starts to happen. Add good reflective walls around everything and it'll go up again. Once I get my little fake grow tent I'm building out of emergency blankets on top of my tomato cages and the rest of my 20w's arrive, I'll be able to see if the light from these can be effectively channeled to bring the efficiency more in line with what I was hoping to see.
Also since the chip style + reflectors are much cheaper per w than these bar style (less than half the price), now that I know they will both require the same additional investment in cooling, they're going to be a better comparison... Also I suspect buying the naked Cobs and building your own reflector around the unit as a whole would be by far the best course... but that would require quite a bit more work... so I'm not willing to undertake it until I am able to see if these things even last long enough to bother with (Since some people are saying their lifespans are measured in weeks).
2w bulb: ~15k lux @ 2.5inches... footprint 2x2" or so. 75 lux @ 12 inches distance.
60/82w growlight: ~15k lux @ 18 inches... footprint ~12x10". 37k lux @ 12 inches distance.
The 30/38w Cob LED with reflector: ~15k lux @ 7 inches... footprint~ 7x5". 4k Lux @ 12 inches distance.
The big test I'm waiting to do is to see if the heatsinks I purchased can handle dispersing 60w's worth of these LED's (3x20watt versions) without direct airflow and just how long the 20w versions can last. I'm hoping both results are positive and I can start making 60watt bars with passive cooling that I can move to where I want them within my garden.
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